Sewaholic Granville Shirt – Giddy up

La version en español se encuentra aquí.

It took forever to get these pictures taken. A bit of sunshine and warmth is long overdue…

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For this shirt, I found my inspiration with Madonna… I think I’ll leave the cape for another day, but I have always loved her look in this video: -not to mention COWBOYS-

Damn, now I need a black leather shirt…

I love sewing shirts, I don’t particularly like wearing shirts. But I love my new belt and wanted a shirt that goes with it. Behold, the logic of my brain.

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Enter the Sewaholic Granville Shirt. I love the apparent simplicity of the shirt, but between the princess seams on the back, the two-piece collar and the sleeves with cuffs and plackets, it still provides a challenging sewing experience and the end result is a great classic shirt.

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I knew from my Cambie that the fit would be great, made for girls with a pear-shaped body, just like me… I cut a straight size 10, which comes closest to my actual measurements. I think the back is maybe a bit wide, but all in all I like the fit as is, and it gives me enough room to move my arms in all directions when I’m dancing around in my living room.

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I wanted a Wild West style shirt so I chose this burgundy red cotton dotted with little stars. I added two breast pockets but didn’t add the flaps.

I also put french seams throughout the entire shirt. It gives a really neat finish overall and you don’t end up with ugly exposed seams when rolling up your sleeves.

Tasia doesn’t use the normal way of putting on the collar. I followed the directions that came with the pattern, and the result is a really nice collar, but it doesn’t look better than my normal way (which is to put the collar together entirely and then sew one side of the collarstand to the shirt and then handsew or topstitch the inner collarstand in place) and I was really confused, so next time I will just do it the old fashioned way… I am a creature of habit…

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SONY DSC

So this is it, my new shirt. And I love it. Love looking at it and love wearing it!

Now all I need are boots. And a horse.

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Bolso acolchado – Quilted bag

Hoy os explico como podéis hacer un bolso acolchado de boquilla.

Además de hacer este tutorial, he empezado una colección en Pinterest con patrones de bolsos .

La tela Big Blooms se encuentra aquí

La tela de foro con lunares se encuentra aquí

Today I will show you how I made this quilted bag.

The flowered fabric can be found here

The polka-dot fabric can be found here

Tutorial bolso de boquilla

What you will need for this bag:

– 1 clasp

– paper and marker

– scissors

– 40 cm of exterior fabric

– 40 cm of interior fabric

– batting

– gold thread

– interfacing if you are making the bag unquilted 

1. DISEÑAR EL PATRÓN

Primero, trazamos la boquilla en el papel, siguiendo el contorno de la misma boquilla.

First, trace the form of the clasp on the paper

 

Giramos la boquilla hacia fuera (+/- 2.5 cm) y trazamos junto al lado corto de la boquilla como está en las fotos de abajo. Además marcamos la posición de la bisagra.

Turn the clasp outward (+/- 2.5 cm) and trace the short side of the clasp. Don’t forget to mark the position of the hinge.

 

En el otro lado de la boquilla hay que dibujar el inverso. A fin de que sea exactamente inverso, cortamos el patrón hasta la mitad, doblamos el papel a la mitad y copiamos la forma en el otro lado.

To copy the pattern on the other side, cut the pattern to the middle of the drawing, double it to the other side and trace around the cut out shape. 

 

Diseñamos la forma que queremos dar a nuestro bolso, y como en el paso anterior, lo cortamos, doblamos y copiamos al otro lado.

Now draw the form you want for your bag, and like the previous step, cut out to the middle, fold in half and trace the outline.

Así tenemos ya el patrón básico de nuestro bolso.

The first piece of the pattern is now ready.

 

Ahora medimos la distancia desde el medio de la parte inferior (A) de nuestro bolso hasta la marca de la bisagra (B). Luego dibujamos en otro papel un rectángulo de esta longitud (A-B) y una anchura de 8 cm. (o 10 cm si quieres un bolso más ancho)

To make the inset, measure the distance between point A (middle of the bottom of the bag) to point B (marking of the hinge) and draw a rectangle with one side measuring this length A-B. The width of the rectangle should be between 8 and 10 cm, depending on how roomy you want your bag to be.

 

En el rectángulo redondeamos un lado corto hacia dentro. La segunda parte de nuestro patrón está.

Round one of the widths of the rectangle inwards.

 

El patrón final:

We have finished our pattern.

Ahora cortamos nuestra tela.

2 piezas del patrón básico del bolso para cada capa (2 x exterior, 2 x  interior y 2 x entretela/guata/polar)

1 pieza del rectángulo redondeado, utilizado en doble (1 x exterior, 1 x interior y 1 x entretela/guata/polar) Para usar esta patrón en doble, plega la tela a la mitad y coloca el patrón sobre la doble capa de tela con el lado corto recto en el pliegue.

Now we cut our fabric:

2 pieces of every fabric of the basic pattern (2x exterior, 2x interior and 2x batting/interfacing)

1 piece of every fabric of the rectangle, placed on the fold of the fabric (1x exterior, 1x interior and 1x interfacing/batting) 

Y ahora: A COSER!

And now: we sew!

1. ACOLCHAR

Acolchar es muy fácil! Simplemente superpones la tela exterior a la guata (o polar) y coses el dibujo que tú quieres. Para mi bolso hice un dibujo de cuadratitos con diagonales. Primero hay que dibujar con rotulador directamente en la guata o con tiza de sastre en la tela exterior. Luego, coser las dos capas superpuestas, siguendo el dibujo que has trazado.

1. QUILTING

Quilting is not that hard! Just pin the exterior fabric together with the batting and sew the pattern you want. I made a pattern of diagonal squares. First you draw the pattern with a marker on the batting or with tailors’ chalc on the exterior fabric, and then you sew the two layers together. Depending on which side you drew the pattern, you put the gold thread through the needle or on the bobbin. 

Si no quieres acolchar tu bolso, simplemente aplicas la entretela a la tela exterior y sigues con la construcción.

If you don’t want to quilt your bag, just apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior fabric and continue the construction.

2. CONSTRUCCIÓN

Empezamos con el forro del bolso que es la parte interior:

Alinea el medio de la pieza básica con el medio de la pieza rectángular, moldeando la tela en las curvas y cose. Repite con la otra pieza básica. El forro del bolso ya está listo.

2. CONSTRUCTION

Let’s start with the lining. Line the centre of the bottom of the bag up with the centre of the rectangle, right sides together. Ease in the rounded corners and sew together. Repeat with the other bag piece.

The lining is ready! 

Construye el exterior del bolso de la misma manera que el forro.

In exactly the same way, assemble the exterior of the bag.

 

Una vez cosido el interior y el exterior del bolso, unimos esas dos partes.

Metemos el exterior dentro del forro, con los lados derechos juntos.

When both pieces are sewn, put the exterior bag inside the lining, right sides facing each other.

 

Ahora juntamos estas dos piezas, cosiendo a lo largo de los bordes de la boca del bolso, dejando un hueco sin coser de +/- 5 cm para luego poder volver del revés al bolso.

Una vez vuelto del revés, cerramos el hueco, cosiendo a mano.

We now put the two bags together by sewing the upper edges of the bag all the way around, leaving about 5 cm open, to turn the bag right side out.

When the bag is right side out, sew the gap closed by hand. 

Para acabar el bolso, juntamos la boquilla y los bordes de la boca del bolso, usando pegamento para textil o cosiendo a mano con un pespunte, según el tipo de boquilla. La boquilla mía tenía agujeritos para que pudiera pasar una aguja. Así que yo usaba hilo de bordado para unir el bolso y la boquilla.

To finish the bag, we have to attach the bag to the clasp. Depending on the type of clasp, you either glue them together, or you sew them by hand using a backstitch. I used an embroidery thread to sew the pieces together.

Bolso listo!

Bag is ready!

Algo está pasando…

… en CoserCosas.

Aankondiging

en breve abro mi tienda online de telas y patrones www.cosercosas.es

Estuvimos preparando y soñando de este proyecto hace dos años, pero fue retrasado en varias ocasiones debido a varias razones. Pero una mudanza y renovación después, estamos todo listo para empezar con muchas ganas y ilusión.

Las puertas se abrirán el 1 de febrero, pero ya nos puedes seguir en Twitter, Facebook y Instagram para ser el primero que se mantenga informado de todas las novedades, ofertas y actividades.

Empezamos con una oferta básica pero elegido con mucho cuidado y cariño y poco a poco ampliamos nuestra gama de productos con nuevas marcas y diseñadores de telas y otros tipos de tejidos como el punto.

Este blog se mantendrá como una página personal donde os enseño los resultados de todas las horas que paso cosiendo.

Hasta pronto!

Wendy

Colette Truffle Dress

 

Truffles, the greatest chocolate-related invention. EVER! There are few chocolate treats that are better than a hump of ganache, rolled in melted chocolate, covered with chocolate flakes… Chocolate heaven!

Conoceís truffles? Son los mejores chocolates en este mundo! Y ahora tengo un vestido con el mismo nombre! 😀

The Colette Truffle Dress is equally genius. I love the simplicity of the dress! A pretty scoop neck, with fairly narrow shoulder bands and a slight A-line skirt. I haven’t seen a lot of Truffles recently, which is a pity, because this is a really basic staple summer dress. I left out the ruffle because 1/ I am not a ruffle person, 2/ I didn’t have enough fabric even if I was a ruffle person. Besides, with the embroidered border, it would have been impossible to make something decent work ruffle-wise.

El Truffle es un vestido del libro de Colette Patterns. Me encanta el diseño puro de este vestido. El patron tiene un volante pero lo dejé porque a mi me gustan los vestidos simples y no tenía tela suficiente…

Where you have the Peony for all your winter and fall sewing, you have the Truffle for summer and spring.

The Truffle Dress is included in the first Colette Sewing Handbook, along with 4 other patterns (that I have yet to try out). This book was a present from my husband for my 30th birthday. Another birthday has passed since, and only now have I made anything out of it… I’d say it was about time…

The fabric I used was a cotton I bought last year when I went to Ferrol and La Coruña last year, while I was wearing my Flamingo Peony. I fell in love with it because of the small flowers, but most of all because of the embroidered border. You just have to love embroidered borders, because that means: NO HEMMING! Awesome!

Me compré esta tela en La Coruña el año pasado, y estaba enamorada con el borde bordado. En esa tela no tienes que coser un bajo! Genial!

I am already planning my next Truffle, it will be a luxurious version, made in silk. To go to a wedding, in my everyday life I don’t really have any valid excuses for wearing silk. I am just wondering if I should go down a size in the bodice. It does seem in some pictures like I have a bit of excess fabric and the armhole appears a bit wide, but the skirt part fits beautifully. What do you guys think?

Ya tengo otra versión preparada. Sería en seda, para ir a una boda. Creo que tengo que hacerme una talla mas pequeña, por lo menos en el parte de arriba. Que opinaís?

The dress is awesome but the most spectacular thing about this post is the place where we took these pictures. We took these in Santander, very close to where we are living temporarily until our apartment is finished. There is a little passage of stairs between our street and the main street, and next to these stairs there is this type of park/garden, which is decorated with all sorts of nautical elements. The first time we discovered this little oasis in the middle of concrete paths and buildings, we were a bit stunned. If you ever come this way, I will show you where to find it!

Las fotos hicimos en un jardín/parque aquí en Santander. Todo el parque y las casas que lo rodean son decorados en tema Nautico. La primera vez que lo vimos, nos sorprendió mucho. Nos encanta! Si pases por Santander, os lo enseño!

You can quickly check your hair in the mirror. Or adjust your dress for a photoshoot. Or have a very intense conversation with yourself.

It even has a real anchor, donated by the Fishermen’s Quarter of Santander.

La ancla, regalo del Barrio Pesquero.

I hope you all start feeling the summer vibes! See you all soon! X

Soy tan feliz que llega el verano! Disfruteís del sol! Un beso! X

Cambie dress – great pattern, below average execution

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

Hi there everyone, remember me? I know I haven’t been around here a lot, but I am back! Not that I haven’t been sewing but I just didn’t feel like blogging. The reason for that? This finished Cambie. It’s the only finished project I have pictures of and I’m not really happy with the pictures (my husband-photographer insisted on taking pictures in Rio de la Pila, thé place to be for drinks on a Saturday evening in Santander, and I wore shoes that I absolutely hate) or with the dress…

Maite me preguntó si era posible de poner algo en castellano en mi blog tambien para que entendería todas las historias que cuento… Entonces en breve añado el relato de este vestido…

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

The reason I’m not happy with the dress is because of the levels of froufrouness of the whole thing, I should have sewn the A-line skirt instead of this gathered one with this busy quilting cotton and I should have made it a size smaller… The armholes are gaping, there is way to much fabric across the bust and the neckline gapes when I slouch, which is my natural position…

No estoy muy contento con este vestido por varias razones: es demasiado froufrou y es demasiado grande. Además no me gustan mis fotos, ni mis zapatos…

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

I don’t think it will get a lot of wear from me, I’ll just have to find someone to take it out of my closet and into their regular wardrobe because I am not unpicking anything on this dress! Gathering this shit took forever! And maybe I should throw in the shoes as well, get them out of my collection… Any takers?

No voy a poner me este vestido mucho. Creo que sería mejor si lo doy de regalo. Alguien lo quiere?

The pattern on the other hand, I really, really like.

My favourite dress ever is an embroidered teal Karen Millen dress that I have had for 7 years now, with a sweetheart neckline, wide waistband, gathers at the sleeves and a gathered skirt. It has been my favourite since I first put it on in the store and it still is. And after 7 years, I can still wear it out and I still get complimented on it… It’s a classic! And the Cambie has all the same features…

I love the sweetheart neckline and the waistband.  It has pockets, so that is obviously awesome and I like the gathers on the sleeves. So I actually love everything about this pattern. I’m already thinking up another version, but I will keep that as a surprise!

Aunque mi vestido es una desillusión total, me encanta el patrón! Ya estoy soñando de otra versión, pero guardo el secreto hasta que lo estreñaré.

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

Now let’s leave all the negativity behind and focus on my awesome pattern-matching. I think I spent an entire hour figuring this out, but I am absolutely positively very happy with myself, I would even dare say I am a bit smug about it.

Estoy contentíssima con el trabajo que he hecho en casar el dibujo de la tela! Tardaría una hora, pero merecío la pena.

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

And look at the insertion of that invisible zip… At the beginning of April I went to Asturias with my guy and I was left to wander the streets of Oviedo and Avilés all on my own, so what should one do then? Go see the fabric stores. I didn’t buy any fabric because I didn’t feel like hauling bags around for an entire day and because of our current living situation, I don’t have any spare room for fabric storage (Lucky for me, in about 2 weeks our apartment will be finished and we can move back). I did however buy one of those metallic invisible zipper feet. It set me back 14€, which I thought was super expensive until I used it. Worth every cent! I don’t know why I waited so long and kept struggling with the horrible plastic monster…

Y aqui una foto de la cremallera invisible. Me compré una prensatela metálica para cremalleras invisibles y estoy completamente loca por ella! La mejor inversión del año!

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

See you all soon with nicer dresses! X

 

And it was called yellow – last dress of winter

* I moved to WordPress, I used to blog over at cosercosas.blogspot.com . I changed because I prefer the comments handling and layout options better here *

*** BTW Sorry for the uninspired post, but I am currently nursing a hangover… Like Heather from the Great British Sewing Bee would say, I drowned in a bucket of gin(-tonic) last night…  ***

yellow peony 6

A lot of sewing has been going on around here, taking pictures just isn’t really happening right now. A combination of drab weather and workload of my husband-photographer are the main reasons.

So far I have made 2 Anna’s, one shirt for my man, an Albion, two man-trousers which were an absolute fail, a muslin for my Bossy-challenge and this Peony. The rest will eventually get up here, I just can’t say when… I have ordered a few patterns online and bought burda’s and patrones magazines and made a lot of future sewing plans and am working on my first Cambie dress. I’m really excited to see how that turns out…

This is my third Peony so far, you can see the others here and here. So that makes this my most used pattern, and I love every single version! This is the last thing I sew for winter, it’s about time the temperature goes up and the sun shouldn’t play hide and seek behind the clouds anymore…

For this one I used a yellow coloured wool I found on a remnants table somewhere. I love to sew with wool, it’s very well-behaving under the machine and presses really easily, and it is a dream to wear.

I wanted to do something different for the third Peony, a little pattern hack if you will, so I changed the back zipper for a button closure. To do this, I just extended the pattern piece with 1 cm at the center back seam and then lined the entire bodice. The new center back sits at 0.5 cm from the edge so that is where I put the buttonholes. If you want, you can just do the same for the skirt part as well.

I have wanted to use trim for a long time now, and I found this green sparkly trim in a haberdashery around the corner from my house. The lady behing the counter is super friendly, so first I made her pull out all kinds of trim in green and purple. After I finally decided on the bling, I wanted coördinated buttons, so she just kept pulling out box after box of green buttons. She told me to take my time, while she was busy with other customers. I think I was in there for over an hour before I finally decided on the buttons…

The waistband on my dress is 80cm and one leaf of the trim is 5 cm, so there was no tricky business involved in matching the pattern on the sideseam. I realized last week that I am now more demanding when it comes to my sewing. I was thinking of wearing a skirt I made a few years ago, but in the end left it in the closet because the total lack of pattern matching was driving me out of my mind. I think that skirt will make a trip to the second hand store real soon.

I didn’t gather the skirt because of the weight of the wool, but I made pleats instead. Luckily when doing the math for the pleats, I wasn’t hung over…

The plan was to put a zipper in the side seam but because of the bulk of the trim (the shinies are sewn to a felt base and is pretty thick) I couldn’t get it to sit right and close at the same time, so I left out the zipper. This makes it impossible for me to put on the dress on my own. It is also impossible to put on the dress while wearing underwear. I don’t have a picture of the process, but there is a lot of grabbing and tugging on body parts involved. Thank God I decided to make useable buttonholes and not just sew a fake buttonplacket…

A lot of love has been invested in the making of this dress. And yes, you can replace the word ‘love’ with ‘hand-sewing’ in that sentence. The trim is sewn on by hand, the buttons of course, the hem is blind-hemmed by hand -I couldn’t be bothered to get my machine out, change the tread and figure out again how the machine blind hem is done- , the zipper was sewn in by hand before I ripped it out again and the lining from the bodice is sewn to the waistseam by hand… I actually love the whole hand-sewing thing. At first it bothers the crap out of me, but after a while, I find it relaxing and I get a great feeling of accomplishment when I finish something by hand.

These pictures were taken at one of our favourite spots in the city, the lighthouse at Cabo Mayor. There is a great walk from the beach up to the lighthouse and the view from up there is spectacular. The best moment is when the sun is setting behind the lighthouse, absolutely breathtaking!