Sewaholic Granville Shirt – Giddy up

La version en español se encuentra aquí.

It took forever to get these pictures taken. A bit of sunshine and warmth is long overdue…

DSC01911

For this shirt, I found my inspiration with Madonna… I think I’ll leave the cape for another day, but I have always loved her look in this video: -not to mention COWBOYS-

Damn, now I need a black leather shirt…

I love sewing shirts, I don’t particularly like wearing shirts. But I love my new belt and wanted a shirt that goes with it. Behold, the logic of my brain.

DSC01889

Enter the Sewaholic Granville Shirt. I love the apparent simplicity of the shirt, but between the princess seams on the back, the two-piece collar and the sleeves with cuffs and plackets, it still provides a challenging sewing experience and the end result is a great classic shirt.

DSC01900

I knew from my Cambie that the fit would be great, made for girls with a pear-shaped body, just like me… I cut a straight size 10, which comes closest to my actual measurements. I think the back is maybe a bit wide, but all in all I like the fit as is, and it gives me enough room to move my arms in all directions when I’m dancing around in my living room.

DSC01903

I wanted a Wild West style shirt so I chose this burgundy red cotton dotted with little stars. I added two breast pockets but didn’t add the flaps.

I also put french seams throughout the entire shirt. It gives a really neat finish overall and you don’t end up with ugly exposed seams when rolling up your sleeves.

Tasia doesn’t use the normal way of putting on the collar. I followed the directions that came with the pattern, and the result is a really nice collar, but it doesn’t look better than my normal way (which is to put the collar together entirely and then sew one side of the collarstand to the shirt and then handsew or topstitch the inner collarstand in place) and I was really confused, so next time I will just do it the old fashioned way… I am a creature of habit…

SONY DSC

SONY DSC

So this is it, my new shirt. And I love it. Love looking at it and love wearing it!

Now all I need are boots. And a horse.

Advertisements

Colette Truffle Dress

 

Truffles, the greatest chocolate-related invention. EVER! There are few chocolate treats that are better than a hump of ganache, rolled in melted chocolate, covered with chocolate flakes… Chocolate heaven!

Conoceís truffles? Son los mejores chocolates en este mundo! Y ahora tengo un vestido con el mismo nombre! 😀

The Colette Truffle Dress is equally genius. I love the simplicity of the dress! A pretty scoop neck, with fairly narrow shoulder bands and a slight A-line skirt. I haven’t seen a lot of Truffles recently, which is a pity, because this is a really basic staple summer dress. I left out the ruffle because 1/ I am not a ruffle person, 2/ I didn’t have enough fabric even if I was a ruffle person. Besides, with the embroidered border, it would have been impossible to make something decent work ruffle-wise.

El Truffle es un vestido del libro de Colette Patterns. Me encanta el diseño puro de este vestido. El patron tiene un volante pero lo dejé porque a mi me gustan los vestidos simples y no tenía tela suficiente…

Where you have the Peony for all your winter and fall sewing, you have the Truffle for summer and spring.

The Truffle Dress is included in the first Colette Sewing Handbook, along with 4 other patterns (that I have yet to try out). This book was a present from my husband for my 30th birthday. Another birthday has passed since, and only now have I made anything out of it… I’d say it was about time…

The fabric I used was a cotton I bought last year when I went to Ferrol and La Coruña last year, while I was wearing my Flamingo Peony. I fell in love with it because of the small flowers, but most of all because of the embroidered border. You just have to love embroidered borders, because that means: NO HEMMING! Awesome!

Me compré esta tela en La Coruña el año pasado, y estaba enamorada con el borde bordado. En esa tela no tienes que coser un bajo! Genial!

I am already planning my next Truffle, it will be a luxurious version, made in silk. To go to a wedding, in my everyday life I don’t really have any valid excuses for wearing silk. I am just wondering if I should go down a size in the bodice. It does seem in some pictures like I have a bit of excess fabric and the armhole appears a bit wide, but the skirt part fits beautifully. What do you guys think?

Ya tengo otra versión preparada. Sería en seda, para ir a una boda. Creo que tengo que hacerme una talla mas pequeña, por lo menos en el parte de arriba. Que opinaís?

The dress is awesome but the most spectacular thing about this post is the place where we took these pictures. We took these in Santander, very close to where we are living temporarily until our apartment is finished. There is a little passage of stairs between our street and the main street, and next to these stairs there is this type of park/garden, which is decorated with all sorts of nautical elements. The first time we discovered this little oasis in the middle of concrete paths and buildings, we were a bit stunned. If you ever come this way, I will show you where to find it!

Las fotos hicimos en un jardín/parque aquí en Santander. Todo el parque y las casas que lo rodean son decorados en tema Nautico. La primera vez que lo vimos, nos sorprendió mucho. Nos encanta! Si pases por Santander, os lo enseño!

You can quickly check your hair in the mirror. Or adjust your dress for a photoshoot. Or have a very intense conversation with yourself.

It even has a real anchor, donated by the Fishermen’s Quarter of Santander.

La ancla, regalo del Barrio Pesquero.

I hope you all start feeling the summer vibes! See you all soon! X

Soy tan feliz que llega el verano! Disfruteís del sol! Un beso! X

Cambie dress – great pattern, below average execution

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

Hi there everyone, remember me? I know I haven’t been around here a lot, but I am back! Not that I haven’t been sewing but I just didn’t feel like blogging. The reason for that? This finished Cambie. It’s the only finished project I have pictures of and I’m not really happy with the pictures (my husband-photographer insisted on taking pictures in Rio de la Pila, thé place to be for drinks on a Saturday evening in Santander, and I wore shoes that I absolutely hate) or with the dress…

Maite me preguntó si era posible de poner algo en castellano en mi blog tambien para que entendería todas las historias que cuento… Entonces en breve añado el relato de este vestido…

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

The reason I’m not happy with the dress is because of the levels of froufrouness of the whole thing, I should have sewn the A-line skirt instead of this gathered one with this busy quilting cotton and I should have made it a size smaller… The armholes are gaping, there is way to much fabric across the bust and the neckline gapes when I slouch, which is my natural position…

No estoy muy contento con este vestido por varias razones: es demasiado froufrou y es demasiado grande. Además no me gustan mis fotos, ni mis zapatos…

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

I don’t think it will get a lot of wear from me, I’ll just have to find someone to take it out of my closet and into their regular wardrobe because I am not unpicking anything on this dress! Gathering this shit took forever! And maybe I should throw in the shoes as well, get them out of my collection… Any takers?

No voy a poner me este vestido mucho. Creo que sería mejor si lo doy de regalo. Alguien lo quiere?

The pattern on the other hand, I really, really like.

My favourite dress ever is an embroidered teal Karen Millen dress that I have had for 7 years now, with a sweetheart neckline, wide waistband, gathers at the sleeves and a gathered skirt. It has been my favourite since I first put it on in the store and it still is. And after 7 years, I can still wear it out and I still get complimented on it… It’s a classic! And the Cambie has all the same features…

I love the sweetheart neckline and the waistband.  It has pockets, so that is obviously awesome and I like the gathers on the sleeves. So I actually love everything about this pattern. I’m already thinking up another version, but I will keep that as a surprise!

Aunque mi vestido es una desillusión total, me encanta el patrón! Ya estoy soñando de otra versión, pero guardo el secreto hasta que lo estreñaré.

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

Now let’s leave all the negativity behind and focus on my awesome pattern-matching. I think I spent an entire hour figuring this out, but I am absolutely positively very happy with myself, I would even dare say I am a bit smug about it.

Estoy contentíssima con el trabajo que he hecho en casar el dibujo de la tela! Tardaría una hora, pero merecío la pena.

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

And look at the insertion of that invisible zip… At the beginning of April I went to Asturias with my guy and I was left to wander the streets of Oviedo and Avilés all on my own, so what should one do then? Go see the fabric stores. I didn’t buy any fabric because I didn’t feel like hauling bags around for an entire day and because of our current living situation, I don’t have any spare room for fabric storage (Lucky for me, in about 2 weeks our apartment will be finished and we can move back). I did however buy one of those metallic invisible zipper feet. It set me back 14€, which I thought was super expensive until I used it. Worth every cent! I don’t know why I waited so long and kept struggling with the horrible plastic monster…

Y aqui una foto de la cremallera invisible. Me compré una prensatela metálica para cremalleras invisibles y estoy completamente loca por ella! La mejor inversión del año!

Sewaholic Cambie Dress

See you all soon with nicer dresses! X

 

And it was called yellow – last dress of winter

* I moved to WordPress, I used to blog over at cosercosas.blogspot.com . I changed because I prefer the comments handling and layout options better here *

*** BTW Sorry for the uninspired post, but I am currently nursing a hangover… Like Heather from the Great British Sewing Bee would say, I drowned in a bucket of gin(-tonic) last night…  ***

yellow peony 6

A lot of sewing has been going on around here, taking pictures just isn’t really happening right now. A combination of drab weather and workload of my husband-photographer are the main reasons.

So far I have made 2 Anna’s, one shirt for my man, an Albion, two man-trousers which were an absolute fail, a muslin for my Bossy-challenge and this Peony. The rest will eventually get up here, I just can’t say when… I have ordered a few patterns online and bought burda’s and patrones magazines and made a lot of future sewing plans and am working on my first Cambie dress. I’m really excited to see how that turns out…

This is my third Peony so far, you can see the others here and here. So that makes this my most used pattern, and I love every single version! This is the last thing I sew for winter, it’s about time the temperature goes up and the sun shouldn’t play hide and seek behind the clouds anymore…

For this one I used a yellow coloured wool I found on a remnants table somewhere. I love to sew with wool, it’s very well-behaving under the machine and presses really easily, and it is a dream to wear.

I wanted to do something different for the third Peony, a little pattern hack if you will, so I changed the back zipper for a button closure. To do this, I just extended the pattern piece with 1 cm at the center back seam and then lined the entire bodice. The new center back sits at 0.5 cm from the edge so that is where I put the buttonholes. If you want, you can just do the same for the skirt part as well.

I have wanted to use trim for a long time now, and I found this green sparkly trim in a haberdashery around the corner from my house. The lady behing the counter is super friendly, so first I made her pull out all kinds of trim in green and purple. After I finally decided on the bling, I wanted coördinated buttons, so she just kept pulling out box after box of green buttons. She told me to take my time, while she was busy with other customers. I think I was in there for over an hour before I finally decided on the buttons…

The waistband on my dress is 80cm and one leaf of the trim is 5 cm, so there was no tricky business involved in matching the pattern on the sideseam. I realized last week that I am now more demanding when it comes to my sewing. I was thinking of wearing a skirt I made a few years ago, but in the end left it in the closet because the total lack of pattern matching was driving me out of my mind. I think that skirt will make a trip to the second hand store real soon.

I didn’t gather the skirt because of the weight of the wool, but I made pleats instead. Luckily when doing the math for the pleats, I wasn’t hung over…

The plan was to put a zipper in the side seam but because of the bulk of the trim (the shinies are sewn to a felt base and is pretty thick) I couldn’t get it to sit right and close at the same time, so I left out the zipper. This makes it impossible for me to put on the dress on my own. It is also impossible to put on the dress while wearing underwear. I don’t have a picture of the process, but there is a lot of grabbing and tugging on body parts involved. Thank God I decided to make useable buttonholes and not just sew a fake buttonplacket…

A lot of love has been invested in the making of this dress. And yes, you can replace the word ‘love’ with ‘hand-sewing’ in that sentence. The trim is sewn on by hand, the buttons of course, the hem is blind-hemmed by hand -I couldn’t be bothered to get my machine out, change the tread and figure out again how the machine blind hem is done- , the zipper was sewn in by hand before I ripped it out again and the lining from the bodice is sewn to the waistseam by hand… I actually love the whole hand-sewing thing. At first it bothers the crap out of me, but after a while, I find it relaxing and I get a great feeling of accomplishment when I finish something by hand.

These pictures were taken at one of our favourite spots in the city, the lighthouse at Cabo Mayor. There is a great walk from the beach up to the lighthouse and the view from up there is spectacular. The best moment is when the sun is setting behind the lighthouse, absolutely breathtaking!

Pants for me, a rarity…

I don’t like wearing pants. There I have said it. I used to adore my Diesel-jeans, I practically lived in them, but they stopped making the model and now they don’t have a model that fits me well anymore. I once went shopping for a new pair, long story short, I went to 5 stores, tried on 20 different models and none fit me. That was quite a depressing way to spend the day. After that, I just gave up on wearing jeans… Any one have a favourite brand or model for pear shapes, preferably manufactured in Europe or the US?
Up until last week I had 2 pair of pants I wore regularly, a grey pair and a black stretch jeans. Last week I was squatting down and the fabric of my black pants tore. Now I must admit, this was not the first time this has happened to me. The insides of my thighs rub together and the fabric gets worn out faster in that spot, and thus eventually all jeans tend to tear up sooner or later…
Even though I don’t like wearing pants, I do like making them. So I decided I should make a new pair of pants. And as a lucky coincidence, February is Smarty Pants Month at The Monthly Stitch.
http://themonthlystitch.wordpress.com/category/smarty-pants/
I had been eying this pattern for a while and I know that Burda-pants fit me just fine without any alterations. After I saw Rachel‘s high waisted trousers, I was more and more convinced that this style should come from under my machine and make its’ way into my closet…
Source Burdastyle.com
 I love the high waist on these pants, I just love the style. The husband-monster? Not so much. I believe he said he will only go out with me if I pull my shirt over the waistband, but I don’t like the way that looks, so he’ll just have to live with tucked in shirts…
The pink wool is from my stash and cost me 15€, picked up from a remnants table in Barcelona. Add a zipper to the grand total and I have new wool trousers for about 16€.
 Now construction wise:
Turns out I can sew a pair of pants in one day! Who would have thought? Certainly not me!
As with all Burda patterns, instructions are minimal. One A4-sheet in total…
 
The welt pockets gave me a bit of a headache. I have never made single welt pockets before, and if I hadn’t found this tutorial, both pockets would have ended up a disaster, instead of just the right pocket. I messed up completely and in the end had to sew the whole pocket by hand. Of course after I had slashed the pocket line…  Ugh! The left pocket looks alright. 
I didn’t go with the invisible zipper but went for a lapped zipper instead, using Sunny’s class on Craftsy. Turns out I should have started with the back leg so the lap would go from front to back, but I started with the front leg, and now my zip closes the wrong way. I’m pretty sure no one will notice.
I was very much in doubt, but in the end I went for the splits on the bottom, and I’m really glad I did. It’s a fun little feature, and they make my shoes look good. I like the way my trousers fall around my shoes instead of sitting on top of the shoe. Next time I will make the split 2cm shorter so my socks don’t show…

I made a size 42, but I think I could have gotten away with a size 40. Guess that will be for next time, when these wear out.
What are your favourite trouser patterns and which one would you recommend me?

Maider’s Leggings Sewalong – Cose Conmigo Leggings por Maider

http://masustak-eguzkitan.blogspot.com.es/search/label/Leggings%20by%20Masustak

leggings 1

I made leggings following a Sew-Along hosted by the sweet and talented Maider, who I have had the pleasure of meeting during our Northern-Spain-Bloggers-Meetup on Boxing Day… You can find pictures and the story about that here and here. I didn’t write a post about this, because I didn’t take any pictures… 

Hizé leggings apuntandome por el cose-conmigo de Maider, una chica muy maga y con mucho talento, que estaba encantada de conocerle durante el Encuentro Costurero-Blogero en Bilbao el 26 de diciembre. Hay fotos y una pequeña historia del día en los blogs de las otras chicas. Yo olvidé la cámara entonces no tengo fotos de ese día geníal…
leggings 3
Seeing how Maider is a Basque blogger, writing in Basque, Spanish and English, I will write this blog post both in English and Spanish, because she will be linking to our posts and I want her readers to understand what I have to say. Well sort of, because my Spanish is really not as good as it should be after living here for over 2 years… Here goes nothing.

Intentaré de escribir este post en Castellano también porque muchos de los seguidores de Maider son españoles y quiero que me entendeís. Pues, más o menos, intentaré… 

leggings 7

So Maider is hosting a Leggings Sew-Along using only your personal measurements to make leggings. I don’t really have a need for more leggings, I already have 1 pair and some different coloured stockings, so I decided to play a bit with the pattern so I would end up with lounge pants/tennis pants. I usually run around the house in my too short, blue reindeer pyjama pants. Not a very attractive sight out of the bedroom. (It’s not very attractive in the bedroom either, but at least they are appropriate there). The people that I live with me owe you a lot of thanks, Maider!
Maider está haciendo un cose-conmigo de Leggings, usando tus propias medidas y nada más! No necesito más leggings en mi vida, ya tengo 1 par y algunas medias en colores diferentes, entonces decidí de jugar un poco con el patrón para acabar con un pantalón para llevar en casa o para ir al clase de tenis. Normalmente, en casa, llevo el pantalón de mi pijama que queda un poco corto, con ciervos azules… No es mi look más favorable… Mi familia tiene que agradecer a Maider por elevar un poco la estética en casa…

leggings 5
To do this, I didn’t use my ankle-measurement, but just used my knee measurement (without reducing 10%) as my ankle measurement. I also added 3 cm to the bottom because I want these pants to end on my shoes, not my ankles. I should have added 5 cm because I think 3 cm is barely long enough, without even hemming the legs.
Para conseguir este resultado, no medí mi tobillo pero usé la medida de la rodilla (sin diminuir 10%) como medida del bajo. Añadí 3 cm abajo porque sino, quedaría un poco corto el pantalón, pero al final tuvé que añadir 5 cm porque el bajo es muy muy justo, sin dobladillo…

leggings 9

I also added a wider waistband than what Maider shows in her tutorials, because I like a wide waistband and I wanted to add a ribbon. To do this, I drew a waistband of 16 cm high (7cm + 1 cm seam allowance each side) Before sewing the waistband on, I made two buttonholes to pull a ribbon through. I went for HOT PINK, because that colour is just HOT and it contrasts really nice with the grey of the pants.
Además, añadí una cinturilla un poco más ancha que la del CC y quería incluir un lazo. Dibujé una cinturilla de 7 cm (entonces pieza de tela de 16 cm: 2X(7+1) y la largura siguiendo la clase de Maider). Hizé dos ojales en el centro antes de unir la cinturilla y el pantalón. Opté por un lazo de color HOT PINK, porque es un color HOT, y el contraste con el gris da un poco de alegría. 

leggings 2

I did use a different order for sewing the pants together. I have followed 2 tutorials (the other one is Make My Pattern) on pants now and they both have you sew up the leg seam first and then the crotch seam, making you put one pant leg in the other and then sew. I do the opposite. I first sewed front and back center seam, and then I sew both leg seams in one smooth movement, as you can see here.
No cosé el pantalón como Maider. Ya he hecho 2 pantalones de manera CC (el otro era de Make My Pattern) y las dos dicen de coser primera las piernas y después las unes. Yo hago al revés. Primero coso el centro delante, después el centro atrás y al final cose las dos piernas enseguidas. Un dibujo para explicar sería un poco más fácil, no?

The fabric came from my favourite fabric store, Rafael Matías in Bilbao. It is a sort of fuzzy sweater knit, that I would use for making baby clothes if I ever felt inclined to do so… (Not having babies is a great way to avoid baby sewing).
La tela es de mi tienda favorita, Rafael Matías en Bilbao. Es una tela para coser sweaters o sí algun día me apetecería, haría ropa de bébé con este tipo de tela. (Pero no tengo bébé, entonces no hace falta que hago ropa de bébés…)

leggings 4
Once I finished the pattern, which took less than an hour, I sewed these pants up in about 1.5 hours (I’m a very slow sewer and get easily distracted by almost anything). So if I am ever in need of sweat pants or leggings, I can now make these in no time!
Dibujar el patrón duró menos que una hora y coser el pantalón me costó una hora y media, pero coso muy lento y estoy despistada cada 3 segundos). Cuando quiero otro par de leggings o pantalón de chandal, usaré este método.

leggings 8

I suggest you all head over to Maider’s blog to check out all her other projects and start making some leggings! If you finish before 31st of January, you can enter the contest (I don’t know the details, so don’t know if it’s worldwide).

Thanks for a great pattern Maider, I hope I win!

Ahora, todo el mundo al blog de Maider para ver sus projectos y para hacer leggings! Si acabaís antes del 31 de enero, puedes entrar en el concurso!!

Muchas gracias Maider por un CC estupendo! A ver si me toca la suerte!

leggings 6 

Deer and Doe Plantain – first make of 2014, a year without resolutions

While I am trying to catch up with all of your blogs -I had around 200 unread posts when I got back from visiting my family- and reading all your (sewing related) resolutions for 2014 while listening to One Direction -blame it on spending a week with my little sister-, I decided I will not make new year’s resolutions.
I don’t believe in radical changes in behaviour or mindsets anyway. I think change is an organic movement, slow but steady, with a lot of reflection, not a straight highway, but a steep mountain road with several difficult parts and a lot of turns, sometimes even U-turns.
So in 2014 I will continue to work towards the long term goals I have for myself.
But that doesn’t mean that I don’t have specific goals for 2014 either. But those are not really resolutions, but just plans, things that would be nice if I could accomplish them this year and other things that I absolutely have to do…
The most important of my plans is surviving the renovations of our appartment. This will be the second time we go through renovations, so we sort of know what to expect… I’m definitely looking forward to the end result, the whole process… not so much. We start next week! Definitely exciting!
Our intention is to drag this apartment into the 21st century, we have a few decades to cross…
I also have a few sewing plans, including:
– Finish my Albion in time for the competition on the Colette site
– Make trousers for my husband for his cousin’s wedding at the end of May
– Execute the projects I have envisioned for my stash. I purchase fabric with specific projects in mind, just have to get of the couch and sink my needles in…
– Draft myself a dress
– Train my picture monkey personal photographer better so I get loads of cool pictures
Since you managed to read through all the above, I think I should show you a project as well.
I couldn’t be more thrilled last week when I saw on Twitter that Deer and Doe released a FREE T-shirt pattern. Yes, that’s right, a FREE pattern. Talk about a great Reyes* present.
I’m not big on sewing or wearing knits, so buying a 15€ pattern for a T-shirt is something I just cannot bring myself to. But if the pattern is free, that makes is an entire other story.
http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/29-tops-plantain-t-shirt.html
Plantain is a T-shirt fitted at the shoulders and flaring at the hips, with elbow patches. Short, long and 3/4 sleeves included in the pattern.
I had been contemplating what to do with this piece of geometric black and white fabric for a while. I was thinking along the lines of another Lola dress or maybe an Avocado hoodie, but when I saw Plantain, I knew they were meant to be thrown under the machine together.
I think I blend in well with the urban jungle
I didn’t want a T-shirt but a loose sweater, so instead of making size 42 I made size 44 and I’m absolutely thrilled the way it turned out.
Yes, I did the unspeakable and wore leggings as trousers. I will now certainly go to fashion-hell.
Things I love about this pattern:
 – the low neckline. So many patterns out there are just very conservative, and I like a little collar bone on display.
– the flaring at the hips
– the elbow patches, even though I didn’t add them
I added a waistband and sleevecuffs, because I like how they look and because I thought the sleeves would be a bit on the short side if I didn’t add some length.

To draw the waistband and cuffs, I first measured the circumference of the pattern pieces, I left of the seam allowance, multiplied this by 90% and then added the seam allowance. I wanted the waistband to be 4 cm wide, so I made a pattern piece of 11 cm high. For the cuffs I went with 7 cm, so that piece was 17 cm high.

I could have made this shirt in about an hour if I had a serger, but since I had to sew the seams, finish the seams and then cut away all the excess fabric, it took me about 3 to 4 times longer, but since my man was on a business trip I really didn’t mind the extra work to keep me occupied.

*Reyes are the 3 wise men and traditionally bring Spanish children that have been good all year gifts on January 6th.