Bolso acolchado – Quilted bag

Hoy os explico como podéis hacer un bolso acolchado de boquilla.

Además de hacer este tutorial, he empezado una colección en Pinterest con patrones de bolsos .

La tela Big Blooms se encuentra aquí

La tela de foro con lunares se encuentra aquí

Today I will show you how I made this quilted bag.

The flowered fabric can be found here

The polka-dot fabric can be found here

Tutorial bolso de boquilla

What you will need for this bag:

– 1 clasp

– paper and marker

– scissors

– 40 cm of exterior fabric

– 40 cm of interior fabric

– batting

– gold thread

– interfacing if you are making the bag unquilted 

1. DISEÑAR EL PATRÓN

Primero, trazamos la boquilla en el papel, siguiendo el contorno de la misma boquilla.

First, trace the form of the clasp on the paper

 

Giramos la boquilla hacia fuera (+/- 2.5 cm) y trazamos junto al lado corto de la boquilla como está en las fotos de abajo. Además marcamos la posición de la bisagra.

Turn the clasp outward (+/- 2.5 cm) and trace the short side of the clasp. Don’t forget to mark the position of the hinge.

 

En el otro lado de la boquilla hay que dibujar el inverso. A fin de que sea exactamente inverso, cortamos el patrón hasta la mitad, doblamos el papel a la mitad y copiamos la forma en el otro lado.

To copy the pattern on the other side, cut the pattern to the middle of the drawing, double it to the other side and trace around the cut out shape. 

 

Diseñamos la forma que queremos dar a nuestro bolso, y como en el paso anterior, lo cortamos, doblamos y copiamos al otro lado.

Now draw the form you want for your bag, and like the previous step, cut out to the middle, fold in half and trace the outline.

Así tenemos ya el patrón básico de nuestro bolso.

The first piece of the pattern is now ready.

 

Ahora medimos la distancia desde el medio de la parte inferior (A) de nuestro bolso hasta la marca de la bisagra (B). Luego dibujamos en otro papel un rectángulo de esta longitud (A-B) y una anchura de 8 cm. (o 10 cm si quieres un bolso más ancho)

To make the inset, measure the distance between point A (middle of the bottom of the bag) to point B (marking of the hinge) and draw a rectangle with one side measuring this length A-B. The width of the rectangle should be between 8 and 10 cm, depending on how roomy you want your bag to be.

 

En el rectángulo redondeamos un lado corto hacia dentro. La segunda parte de nuestro patrón está.

Round one of the widths of the rectangle inwards.

 

El patrón final:

We have finished our pattern.

Ahora cortamos nuestra tela.

2 piezas del patrón básico del bolso para cada capa (2 x exterior, 2 x  interior y 2 x entretela/guata/polar)

1 pieza del rectángulo redondeado, utilizado en doble (1 x exterior, 1 x interior y 1 x entretela/guata/polar) Para usar esta patrón en doble, plega la tela a la mitad y coloca el patrón sobre la doble capa de tela con el lado corto recto en el pliegue.

Now we cut our fabric:

2 pieces of every fabric of the basic pattern (2x exterior, 2x interior and 2x batting/interfacing)

1 piece of every fabric of the rectangle, placed on the fold of the fabric (1x exterior, 1x interior and 1x interfacing/batting) 

Y ahora: A COSER!

And now: we sew!

1. ACOLCHAR

Acolchar es muy fácil! Simplemente superpones la tela exterior a la guata (o polar) y coses el dibujo que tú quieres. Para mi bolso hice un dibujo de cuadratitos con diagonales. Primero hay que dibujar con rotulador directamente en la guata o con tiza de sastre en la tela exterior. Luego, coser las dos capas superpuestas, siguendo el dibujo que has trazado.

1. QUILTING

Quilting is not that hard! Just pin the exterior fabric together with the batting and sew the pattern you want. I made a pattern of diagonal squares. First you draw the pattern with a marker on the batting or with tailors’ chalc on the exterior fabric, and then you sew the two layers together. Depending on which side you drew the pattern, you put the gold thread through the needle or on the bobbin. 

Si no quieres acolchar tu bolso, simplemente aplicas la entretela a la tela exterior y sigues con la construcción.

If you don’t want to quilt your bag, just apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior fabric and continue the construction.

2. CONSTRUCCIÓN

Empezamos con el forro del bolso que es la parte interior:

Alinea el medio de la pieza básica con el medio de la pieza rectángular, moldeando la tela en las curvas y cose. Repite con la otra pieza básica. El forro del bolso ya está listo.

2. CONSTRUCTION

Let’s start with the lining. Line the centre of the bottom of the bag up with the centre of the rectangle, right sides together. Ease in the rounded corners and sew together. Repeat with the other bag piece.

The lining is ready! 

Construye el exterior del bolso de la misma manera que el forro.

In exactly the same way, assemble the exterior of the bag.

 

Una vez cosido el interior y el exterior del bolso, unimos esas dos partes.

Metemos el exterior dentro del forro, con los lados derechos juntos.

When both pieces are sewn, put the exterior bag inside the lining, right sides facing each other.

 

Ahora juntamos estas dos piezas, cosiendo a lo largo de los bordes de la boca del bolso, dejando un hueco sin coser de +/- 5 cm para luego poder volver del revés al bolso.

Una vez vuelto del revés, cerramos el hueco, cosiendo a mano.

We now put the two bags together by sewing the upper edges of the bag all the way around, leaving about 5 cm open, to turn the bag right side out.

When the bag is right side out, sew the gap closed by hand. 

Para acabar el bolso, juntamos la boquilla y los bordes de la boca del bolso, usando pegamento para textil o cosiendo a mano con un pespunte, según el tipo de boquilla. La boquilla mía tenía agujeritos para que pudiera pasar una aguja. Así que yo usaba hilo de bordado para unir el bolso y la boquilla.

To finish the bag, we have to attach the bag to the clasp. Depending on the type of clasp, you either glue them together, or you sew them by hand using a backstitch. I used an embroidery thread to sew the pieces together.

Bolso listo!

Bag is ready!

Advertisements

Tutorial for drafting a mini-skirt

I promised a tutorial for the skirt I made, so here it is.

Let me show you my original diagram.

Yes, this is in Dutch.

I fine-tuned this and applied colour-coding and registered every step to give you a nice tutorial. So here you go, for all of you who want to make a skirt like mine, follow along! 

For all you crazy people out there that are not using the metric system , 1 inch is 2.54 cm.

And here is the explanation, but once you get the right order, it’s really not that difficult, I promise. You’ll see.

Now to do this, I taped brown craft-paper to my sewing table and used the lines as a guideline, but the most important thing is to pay attention to your right angles, and from there on out, everything comes together rather nice.

The only three measurements you need are your hips, waist and distance between hip and waist.

Here you have a very professional drawing of a body with the directions for the measurements…

My model is slightly imperfect, to be more true to reality 😉

As an example, I will use my own measurements which are 106 cm hip and 78 cm waist. Hm, pear shaped much?
Distance between the two +/- 26 cm.
I used 1 cm ease because I wanted a close fitting skirt, but you can use whatever ease you want…
I’ve put my calculations in green below.

First you draw your base-line: A

A = 1/2 x hip + ease (note, in the final skirt, the amount of ease will be double of this amount, because we are only drawing half of the skirt).
A = 1/2 x 106 cm + 1 cm = 54 cm

Next up is the length of the skirt, line B

Decide how long you want the skirt to be (starting at the waistline) and add your hem-allowance. Here are a few options:

  • seam allowance (1.5 cm) if you add a hem facing
  • 3 – 5 cm if you just turn the hem, finished invisible or not
  • none, if you decide to leave the raw edge exposed

B = 45 cm + 3 cm = 48 cm 

Complete your rectangle.

On to side C, here I just divided A in 2, but you can change it how you want, giving more width to the back than to the front, I suggest that you measure your body and make a muslin. For example, my hip measurement is 106 cm, but my front (stopping at where my side seam would ideally be) hip is 51 cm, making my back hip measurement 55 cm. So here are two suggestions for calculations.

C = 1/4 x  hip + 1/2 ease
or
C front = 1/2 x front hip + 1/2 ease
C back = 1/2 x back hip + 1/2 ease

C = 1/4 x 106 + 0.5 = 27 cm
or
C front = 1/2 x 51 + 0.5 = 26 cm
C back = 1/2 x 55 + 0.5 = 28 cm

 

Now we move to the top of our rectangle. First of all, add 1.5 cm to the top of the dividing line between front and back and draw a line from the top of the sides to this point. On this line we will calculate the length of our waist.

D = 1/4 x waist + width of darts/pleats + 1/2 ease
You can use whatever you want here, I used 2 pleats of 3 cm each, you can just as easily make this into a single dart of 3 cm, or you can add 3 darts of 2 cm or 5 of 1 cm, or whatever you prefer. Just make sure that D < C

D = 1/4 x 78 + 2 x 3 + 0.5 = 26 cm

E follows the same logic as D, but goes at the back. I added 2 darts, one long dart and one short dart. The first 4 cm wide and the latter 2 cm wide. Again, you can use whatever you want here!

E = 1/4 + 78 + 4 + 2 + 0.5 = 26 cm

Mark your waist-hip distance on your pattern, from the top down and also mark half of the distance. Small caps a and b in gray on the diagram. Connect the end of D and E with the bottom marking you just made in the centre of your diagram.
a = distance between hip and waist
b = 1/2 x a

a = 26 cm
b = 1/2 x 26 = 13 cm

Next up, divide your front and back panel in 3 sections. 1/3 x C (front and back)

Next the darts. The widest dart goes where the butt goes, so closest to the center back seam. Left on the diagram. The narrowest dart goes more towards the side seam, right on the diagram. I let the largest dart end in halfway between a and b.

On to the pleats on the front panel. Make sure you spread the pleats evenly. I used the 1/3 mark as the center between my pleats. If you decide to add a dart to the front, make the center of the dart the 1/3 mark you drew in the previous step. Pleats or darts on the front should go up to line b.

Now we are almost there! Just decide how far below your waist you want your skirt to start. I went with 5 cm.

Draw a line parallel to lines D and E, 5 cm lower (or distance chosen).

Now all that is left, is to finish the markings on our pattern. The tips of all the darts need to go straight up from the last drawn line (parallel to the center back line) up to line E and D, if not, our facing will become to narrow.

Blue lines = where to cut out your pattern piece
Gray lines = will help you draw your pattern
Brown lines = markings to transfer onto you fabric

Now just cut your pattern on the blue lines and you’re ready to cut your fabric and sew your skirt!
When you cut your fabric, don’t forget to add seam allowance (usually 1.5 cm) to the side seams and center back seam. The center front seam is cut on the fold so you only have 1 frontpiece!
Hem is already included and for the waist there is no extra allowance necessary.

To sew this skirt, the instructions are standard and simple

1. Sew darts and pleats following your markings. Darts are pressed towards the side seam, pleats can be pressed to your liking, and if you swing that way, you can even stitch them down…

2. Insert the zipper. If you’re looking for a great tutorial on inserting different types of zippers,  I highly recommend the free Craftsy class ‘Mastering Zipper Techniques’. It is a bit boring, but covers all the basics! Make sure your zipper is long enough to go beyond your butt, or you’ll have trouble getting in and out of your skirt.
The zipper should start where you will turn under the waist-facing. (the brown sloping line you drew near the end). All that goes above this point is left as open.

3. Sew the side seams. Make sure to line up the notches (the little brown lines in the center of the diagram).

4. Press your seams.

5. Finish your raw edges by zigzagging, pinking, serging, binding with bias tape,…

6. Finish your hem by turning it under (3 cm) and stitching it down in/visibly, add a hem facing,…

7. Turn under the waist-facing, press thoroughly in place.

8. Invisibly tack your facing in place.

9. Wear with pride and joy! And send me a picture of your skirt, I would love to see it!

If you have any questions about drawing your skirt or putting it together, give me a shout-out in the comments below and I promise I will get back to you!

If you want to share this tutorial, please go ahead. But mention where you got it!